Enso sail

Next challenge, the strait of Singapore, the 2nd busiest shipping channel in the world after the english channel. Around 2000 ships a day pass thru the very narrow strait, 12 miles wide and 70 miles long. We would be taking 2 days to do it with a stop next to a navy base half way thru. This would help us avoid a strong current against and navigating in the dark. With the density of traffic the passage was more like a huge parking lot with tankers and containerships anchored all along the edge of the traffic lanes. And then little zippy boats flying around and the fast ferry from Indonesia to Singapore was interesting to watch; weaving thru the boats going both directions at 25 to 30 knots.

Being on watch was a busy and exciting(stressful) time. There is a large traffic separation scheme including roundabouts, with tugs and tankers going from along the edge. We stayed right along the west bound lane making sure to stay out of Singapore waters and not in the way of the big ships steaming along at 10 to 15 knots. The Singapore police boats would zip up and down the border doing the occasional donut, they hailed us on the radio once to see where we were headed. We had reports from other cruisers of being hailed many times in a row. 

One of the neater things we got to see was a pilot getting on one of the ships to guide it into port. The ship, slowed down to six knots or so and lowered a ladder and the tiny pilot boat came screaming up and dropped the guy off on the ladder… a long climb up, very smooth, must be exciting when there are big waves!

We were all surprised by how many fisherman were out in tiny open boats between the anchored tankers with pots and nets. Adding one more thing for us to avoid 

On our second day of transit we were leaving our anchorage in the river that separates Malaysia and Singapore, and got to see some porpoises playing between the anchored ships. The first whales since Tioman island. It was really neat to see some, as the ocean had been feeling very empty.

Overall the transit went really well, the current was with us in the morning during the really busy section so we made good time going past the container port.

Once we turned north towards Putri harbor marina the current was against us but with a lot less ships around, just an occasional tug and tow or smallish tanker. 

The marina was nice with a large basin and pretty new docks. It is surrounded by restaurants and condos, it looks like there were great plans for this place but it never quite made it. A lot of the condos were either unfinished or mostly empty and dark.

After arriving and chatting with the marina staff we headed out for food, one of the closest places was indonesian and malaysian and sounded good. But no beer to be had at this place, a fairly common experience in malaysia. If you want alcohol you need to check the menu in the smaller towns as most don’t serve it. Because it is a majority Muslim population alcohol and halal restrictions are normal. Not a big deal as the fruit juice and smoothies are quite good. (Just the rose flavored stuff takes some getting used to!)

Next day we headed for Singapore where we booked separate hotels for a couple nights to get some space and have different experiences. We took a taxi service across the border which drives you thru to your hotel. With stops at malaysia customs(leaving) and Singapore (arriving) the malaysian version you stay in the van and wave at the official in their booth. The Singapore you get out and walk thru an arrival hall and fingerprint on the fancy electronic pads. Pretty quick and easy and our two days in Singapore were starting. 

We had all been really looking forward to Singapore with its fancy coffee and easy public transport. 

The first thing that struck us is the amount of trees and greenery they have kept in the city. It is a mishmash of high rises, old two story shop houses from a hundred years ago and huge malls. 

Si and I grabbed a hotel close to Arab street and India town. Both neighborhoods that are very walkable and lots of fun to explore. With lots of shops and coffee places and local joints serving roti and curry. 

Public transport in Singapore is great for tourists as all you need is a credit card with touch enabled and you can ride without needing to download an app or buy tickets. Makes it pretty easy, with a large bus system and underground you can reach almost anywhere by public transport. 

We took the underground to the botanical garden north of town and enjoyed a lovely walk till the monsoon rain started… what we thought would be 20 minutes of rain turned into an hour… and we had to give up on sheltering under the trees and make a dash to a real roof 🙂

Luckily it never really gets cold so after the rain quit we had a nice wander to a coffee house outside the park. Which gave us time to dry out and eat some delicious pastries. 

It was lovely to be able to walk places and just to do things for fun. The passage from Thailand down and around went really smooth but it was still pretty stressful for me. Lots of new things to learn and lots of things I didn’t know I needed to learn. Overall the trip to Singapore was a needed break, nice to get off the boat and nice to see some nature.

I’m looking forward to spending more time in Singapore, a nice city and very nice people. Also a good spot for flying in and out of to the west coast of America. 

Cheers Bree